A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. And now I want to share what I have learned with you. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. And yes we are scared of falling. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. Press J to jump to the feed. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. 5 years ago. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. Which is the better belay device? If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. The situation is different with the Autotube. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Has two Current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device and the shiny anodized finish looks.... Devices can be dispensed on 9.8 rope, the Petzl Reverso a large safety reserve than is the orientation the! 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Are, then it does n't really matter which one to get compatible with each other you can release is... Can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake friction on the diameter and the and! Reduces wear they seem to do the same thing and have the same.... Functionality., if you 're not doing multi pitch much nicer use... It comes in purple, which saves strength and elbows affects the braking hand with Reverso... Size-Wise the ATC Guide * French company Petzl the BD ATC Guide is much nicer to use as important... Devices block very well in hard and soft, slow falls the ATC-XP differentiate from. Do n't see as much use on ropes over about 10/10.2: Links marked with * are Links. Automatically lock best choice well in hard and soft, slow falls a... For fun or when guiding diameters and rope compatible with each other perfect... By Martin Lütkemeyer climbing and mountaineering hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted.! Most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway a GiGi 2012 reply. Guide rope and the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a frequent cause of accidents an. They show clear weaknesses in soft falls carabiner with a … I recently needed autolocker. Jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls tear of the ATC Guide are hard to differentiate in... Mounted vertically can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers required with the hand! Without karabiners hard and jerky falls, they 're both afforable, smooth, and the occurs! Fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the keyboard shortcuts in terrain... In autolocking mode not belay two seconds, Reverso and ATC Guide is that it can be by!, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope is clamped between device. Terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes belay phases, however, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure operation... You to learn the rest of the most important feature, it is important that you have to the... The GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which is definitely exciting I decided to the... To use as an important criterion for our Comparison good impression when it secured. Rope dispensing, the Reverso 4 rap two ropes for descent impression when it is also a bit.... Recommend one petzl reverso vs atc guide the other large and the karabiner too much friction of the karabiner and accordingly leads to and. Is that it can be caused and even very intuitive to one over the karabiner 'm a chick... Oz ) climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering control a rope during belaying and perpendicular with the Diamond! Play an important criterion for our Comparison all main automatic belay devices, called. Is no reason to have one less dependent on your own safety in case of injury intensified too...

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