Apart from a plunge router, you only need standard tools and sundries. Bolt the two circular retainers (the wooden discs you kept over from Part 1) to the centre top of the rocker box sides and apply felt to the inside surface. Tape measure and pencil – Accurate measurements are essential for making sure that the mount assembles to a tight tolerance. Using the Stellarfane directions, I laid out the two sides, made out of ¾ plywood for added stiffness. I've gotten around it with a small stool to sit on when scope is tilted low. I'll probably paint mine. The dimensions of our design are based on a 10-inch Newtonian reflector but you can work out what size components you need for any Newtonian with an aperture of 8 inches or more using the ‘Calculations’ spreadsheet in the ‘Construction’ zip folder available at the link above. Mark the jig using the figures in the red boxes on the Calculations spreadsheet and drill 2mm holes in these positions. Attach edging strips to the altitude bearing wheels and then attach the tube rings to the telescope. Centre the dovetail bar of your telescope on this line both vertically and horizontally, then mark and drill the two holes for attaching the tube rings. I first made the back legs by attaching two pieces to form an 'L' shape with wood glue and deck screws countersunk in the wood. The box part widths can be calculated as follows: Side Height = Tube OD + ¼" bottom gap + ¾" top gap + (2 × Plywood Thickness), Top & Bottom Width = Tube OD + (2 × ¼" side gap), Side Height = 9 ¼" + ¼" bottom + ¾" top + 1" = 11 ¼". Note: I originally made 16 inch diameter bearings but I did not have enough laminate. For my it was 16". I've been there. For this job you want a nearly perfect circle. I used wood glue, 1 5/8" deck screws, and 3/16" wooden dowels. Follow one of the lines passing through the centre and mark the one- and three-quarter points; drill pilot holes on them. I had to remove wood from the circular triangles in order for a proper fit. The balance point is needed to know how big to make to make the Rocker Box. The legs sit under the ground board feet. Well I had a couple of options such as using an old album or using a different laminate. Looks like you did a really nice job. After cutting the board with the router previously described when I made the rocker box bottom, I up drilled the center pivot hole, which must be drilled out to fit the 3/8 inch threaded Tee-nut. The mount works really well, however, it sits very low for someone tall. Jim at ScopeStuff happened to have one last bit of ¾" by 48" bearing strip left. 4 years ago, Formica Brand Laminate 30-in x 96-in Ouro Romano-Etching Laminate. Anywhere between 1.5x and 1.8x is fine, with larger wheels resulting in smoother operation. We’ll assume that you have gathered all of the fixings, bearings and other parts listed in our ‘Components’ list. I like the stand and you're right that the eyepiece is too low when viewing objects on the horizon. I measured 17¼ inches from the rotation point of the altitude bearings to the back of the tube. Now position the front of the rocker box so that it touches the two sides. Remove the plunge router’s foot and use it as a template to cut the circle-cutting jig: its length should be 450mm, its width the same as your router. Attach the router by aligning a 2mm nail through the jig into a pilot hole at the centre and rout two ‘half moons’. Attach them to the top of the rocker box sides spaced as close as possible to 70° apart. To do this I inserted the tube into cradle with the heaviest eyepiece in the focuser along with all tube mounted accessories to ensure its heaviest configuration as recommended by Stellerfane and found the balance point on a table. 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